Art Nouveau (1895 – 1910)

Art Nouveau jewellery, also known as "new art," emerged in France between 1895 and 1910 as a reaction against the ornate designs of the Victorian era and in contrast to the mainstream Edwardian designs of the time. While similar aesthetic jewellery was being made in other countries, true Art Nouveau jewellery is distinctly French.

This short-lived period lasted about 15 years because World War I began, and the pieces were considered over-the-top, leading to a decline in interest. Art Nouveau jewellery was a reaction to French society's changes at the time, such as women fighting for equal rights outside the home by obtaining an education and employment.

Women's empowerment provoked fear in France, particularly after their loss in the Franco-Prussian War. Women were seen as both revered and feared, leading to jewellery depicting a lovely and unthreatening woman or fantasy women, such as sexualized mermaids and fairies with wings, or "scary" women, such as Medusa.

Nature was incorporated in the jewellery, using insects and flowers that were sexualized, something never seen before. The pieces were large, in-your-face, and expensive, leading mostly artistic and wealthy types to don them, as well as unmarried women supported by wealthy lovers.

The design, rather than the material, was most important for Art Nouveau jewellery. Enamel, including translucent plique-à-jour enamel, was the primary material used, while horn and carved ivory were also common. Diamonds were used as accent stones, and due to the delicate enamel material, Art Nouveau designs in good condition are not abundant.